california

Surfing has always felt like such a gift to me. From my first foray into what would unwittingly become a lifelong passion, to now, over a decade and a half later, every session, every wave, every paddle feels like something special bestowed upon me by the universe at large. Like a gem hidden in plain sight, I feel as though I was shown a secret door to a land (or sea, rather) that, is it turned out, I would never want to leave.

Now, I realize that California is not technically a ‘travel’ destination for me, as it is my home state, but it’s one that is so varied and broad that I feel it deserves its own mention, especially with the historic news being declared on its behalf today.